What Does Anything But Chardonnay Mean?

(Updated:  8/23/25)

The catchphrase "Anything but Chardonnay" emerged in the late 1990s and early 2000s as a reaction to the popularity of heavily oaked, buttery Chardonnays that dominated the wine market at the time.  We hilariously unpacked the phrase in an interview on the Case Wine Life Show with former Brand Ambassador for Trinchero Fine Wines, Carly Maher.  

History

The “Anything But Chardonnay” Chardonnays are mostly produced in California and are made with the technique called malolactic fermentation, which gives the wine a buttery, creamy texture and flavors of vanilla and oak by converting malic acid to lactic acid.  However, many wine drinkers found these wines to be too heavy and overbearing, leading to the bias that all Chardonnays taste the same.  Thus, the phrase "Anything but Chardonnay" surfaced as a way to express this sentiment and to signal a preference for other white wine varietals like Sauvignon Blanc, Pinot Grigio, and Riesling.

As wine drinkers reached for Voga Pinot Grigio, a top selling pinot grigio in the early 2000’s, and Kim Crawford Sauvignon Blanc, Chardonnay sales naturally took a dive.  Adding insult to injury, Kim Crawford Sauvignon Blanc (Kim identifies as a man not a woman by the way) was awarded a seat at the apex of the widely respected Wine Spectator’s Top 100 list in 2003.  

Re-invention

Nothing like self-preservation as a motivator, Chardonnay producers took heed of what consumers were saying and regrouped.  They dusted off their enology and viticulture books from U.C. Davis (the foremost incubator for California winemakers) and reformulated how they made Chardonnay.  The shift was focused towards a lighter and more balanced product, departing from the heavily-oaked, buttery style that spurred the "Anything but Chardonnay" movement. Thus, fermenting in new oak barrels that allowed for the malolactic fermentation as mentioned was abandoned.

Reformed efforts had a lighter touch when it came to the oak barreling, opting for neutral oak barrels or stainless steel tanks instead of new oak. This allows the natural fruit flavors of the Chardonnay grape to shine through, resulting in wines that are fresher and more vibrant. 

In addition, many winemakers are focusing on picking Chardonnay grapes at optimal ripeness to ensure a balance between acidity and fruit flavors. This can result in wines with a more nuanced flavor profile and a greater sense of somewhereness, as the grapes reflect the unique characteristics of the terroir in which they were grown.  

The timing of the new and improved Chardonnay could not have been better. When post-Anything But Chardonnay Chardonnay hit the market in the mid-2000’s interest in pairing food with wine started to spike. The resulting Post-ABC Chardonnay has been versatile and perfect for pairing, from seafood to red meat. 

Final Note

The rise of Unoaked Chardonnay offers a new perspective on this favorite white wine. Witness the shift from the 'Anything But Chardonnay' bias as this style gains popularity. Embrace the evolving Chardonnay landscape!