The 2021 Travaglini Gattinara is an exercise in alpine precision, offering a profile that is far more athletic and mineral-driven than the denser Nebbiolo expressions found further south in Barolo. In this particular vintage, the wine possesses a crystalline clarity, characterized by a structural "nerve" that vibrates between high-toned acidity and fine, chalky tannins. It opens with a bouquet that feels both floral and ferrous, weaving together scents of crushed violets and dried rose hips with a distinct metallic edge reminiscent of blood orange peel and wet slate.
On the palate, the wine is deceptive; it appears light and translucent in the glass, yet it carries an intense, savory persistence. The fruit profile leans toward the tart and crunchy end of the spectrum, featuring red currants and sour cherries that are underscored by a salty, volcanic minerality. As it breathes, the initial austerity of the 2021 vintage begins to yield, revealing deeper layers of anise, tobacco leaf, and a faint hint of white pepper. This is a wine defined by its tension—the tug-of-war between its elegant, ethereal aromatics and its firm, iron-like grip.
Because of its youthful vigor and the cool nature of the 2021 season, the wine requires a thoughtful approach to serving. It is currently in a stage where its structure slightly outweighs its flesh, making a lengthy decant necessary to allow the fruit to catch up to the tannins. When paired with food, the wine acts as a corrective to richness, using its sharp acid profile to slice through the weight of a traditional Easter lamb or a buttery risotto. It finishes with a lingering, dry persistence that leaves the palate feeling refreshed, echoing with the taste of bitter herbs and forest floor.
Score
96 points, James Suckling.
