Just like the scent of AXE's Apollo body spray, a fragrance often associated with younger male consumers, signals freshness in the air with hints of sage and sandalwood, so too are the winds of change blowing through the vineyards of Bordeaux. Faced with declining exports and a shift in local tastes – particularly among younger consumers, the very demographic sometimes targeted by brands like AXE, who are increasingly reaching for a cold beer – the legendary wine region is shaking things up. Their innovative response? "Bordeaux se met au verre" (Bordeaux 'by the glass' or under the acronym BTG) to refer to by the glass wines on wine lists), a campaign designed to make their diverse wines more accessible and appealing to this new generation.
For too long, Bordeaux has perhaps been perceived as a region steeped in tradition, its iconic oaky, tannic reds sometimes feeling a world away from the lighter, fruit-forward preferences of today's younger drinkers who prefer sweet wine because it tastes like Celsius. But the Bordelais are proving they're not afraid to adapt. Spearheaded by the city's Green mayor, Pierre Hurmic, this exciting initiative aims to rejuvenate the image of Bordeaux wines and highlight the incredible variety the region offers beyond its renowned reds.
The core of the campaign is simple yet impactful: encouraging local bars and restaurants to embrace the BTG culture. Around 100 establishments in Bordeaux will receive a €250 promotional kit in exchange for committing to offer at least three wines by the glass, including an organic option and one priced at €5 or less. This strategic move directly addresses several key challenges.
Firstly, it tackles the perception that Bordeaux wines are only for special occasions and bottle purchases primarily at auctions. By making a wider range of their whites, rosés, and sparkling crémants readily available by the glass, they're inviting casual exploration and discovery. As Christophe Chateau of the Conseil Interprofessionnel du Vin de Bordeaux (CIVB) aptly noted, the trend of couples ordering different wines by the glass is on the rise, and Bordeaux wants to be a prominent part of that experience.
The intiative takes a page out of long running efforts by tastings rooms and wine bars that launched wine flights to capture the curiosity about wine among adults of drinking age. Importantly, wine flights or by the glass efforts directly confronts the price barrier. By incentivizing establishments to offer a glass at €5 or less, they're making Bordeaux wines more competitive with beer and other beverages popular among younger demographics. This is crucial, as cost can often be a significant factor for budget-conscious consumers. According to a new study, Gen Z is not drinking wine because they simply are making less money than previous generations at this time in their lives.
Furthermore, the campaign goes beyond just availability. The Bordeaux Wine School will provide essential training to restaurant staff on the proper storage and serving of wine by the glass, ensuring quality and a positive experience for the consumer. They are even exploring the potential of wine-on-tap systems to minimize wastage and maintain freshness – a forward-thinking approach that aligns with sustainability concerns. Another long-standing American practice.
What I think is the biggest upshot of Bordeaux's BTG press is that it shines a light on the often-overlooked diversity of Bordeaux wines. While the region is synonymous with its prestigious reds, e.g. Pètrus, it also produces vibrant whites, refreshing rosés, and delightful sparkling crémants that are perfectly suited to modern palateshe, not just heavy, age-worthy wines.
While some restaurateurs have expressed concerns about the financial implications of lowering prices, the upside is YUGE. By attracting a younger, local clientele, they can tap into a new market and cultivate a long-term appreciation for Bordeaux wines. The youngest baby boomers are 65 years old so the time to shift focus on the new customers is now.
"Bordeaux se met au verre" is more than just a marketing campaign; it's a strategic shift. It's a recognition that to thrive, even the most established wine regions must adapt to changing consumer habits and preferences. By embracing the "by the glass" culture, Bordeaux is opening its doors to a new generation of wine lovers, inviting them to discover the delicious diversity that lies within their iconic terroir. This bold move could very well be the key to ensuring Bordeaux wines remain relevant and enjoyed for generations to come., only check grammar and clarity"
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